Cross from Edgartown to Chappaquiddick Island on the Chappy Ferry (map) and you pass from the most historic and graceful town on Martha's Vineyard island to its least developed district, boasting several beautiful beaches, nature reserves and a tranquil Japanese garden.

"Chappy," as it's called, is about three miles (5 km) across, and has only one paved road named, creatively, Chappaquiddick Road. The rest of the roads are single-lane sand tracks okay for bicycling in most places. There is one sort-of shop in a house that sells a few necessities (milk, etc.), but no other commerce or emergency services, so bring everything you need: water, picnic/food, drinks, sunscreen, etc.

The people who live on Chappaquiddick (CHAP-ah-QUID-dick) value the isolation. The island receives few of those who arrive by ferry in Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs, and who stroll Main Street and North Water Street in Edgartown.

Even so, the wait for a place for your car on the Chappy Ferry can be an hour or more in summer, especially on weekends.

In summer, I'd suggest that you get your car (at least) on the ferry as early as possible in the morning—passengers can cross later if necessary—and don't wait until late in the day to return to Edgartown, or you may have to wait an hour or more.

The Chappy Ferry returns from Chappaquiddick to Edgartown, Martha's Vineyard...

Unless you're a great hiker, you'll need a vehicle to get to Mytoi Garden (the serene Japanese botanical oasis), Wasque Point, Leland Beach, Norton Beach, or Cape Pogue Wildlife Refuge.

A bicycle is fine on the paved road, and possible on some of the sand roads, though you may hit some soft patches and have to walk your bike for a few minutes.

—by Tom Brosnahan

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